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CBD - A cosmetic fad or the biggest trend to innovate the beauty market?

By Andrew Megahy • May 20, 2019 • 4 min

Cannabidiol (CBD) is currently the trend of day in almost every industry globally. With scientific research backing the claims made by some of the biggest players in the beauty market it is proving itself to not be another dead fad of 2019.

It’s surprising to think that this natural ingredients’ use dates back to over 4000 years ago. The oldest known written record is Chinese emperor Shen Nung and carries on to Ancient Romans, Greeks and the timeless beauty icon Egyptian Queen Cleopatra who was known to use CBD oil in her daily beauty routine to keep her skin looking young and refreshed (1).

However, it wasn’t until 1940 that scientists took a closer look at the benefits of isolating the CBD compound. At the time they did not know exactly what they had discovered. It is only in recent years we have successfully found the remarkable benefits of CBD when used in skincare, beauty products, soaps and hair care.

Despite cannabis being a taboo for decades, it is today flourishing into a multi-billion-pound industry. The American CBD industry alone was predicted to reach 20 billion by 2020 (2). Future Market reported in its Global Industry Analysis and Opportunity Assessment (2019 – 2027) that the CBD skincare market is estimated to be valued at over $645 million in 2019. (4) The United Kingdom is also seeing a drastic shift in the consumers approach towards CBD products. The Cannabis Trades Association states that the number of CBD oil users doubled in 2017 and currently sits at 250,000 regular customers. Making it the fastest growing industry in the UK. (3)

What we know so far…

While no health claims can be advertised, the research is there to back up the consumers claims. CBD research has shown that there are a wide range of benefits to using CBD to help with pain relief, skin repair, and the ability to alleviate sleeping disorders like insomnia. Cannabidiol acts as an anti-inflammatory on the skin which helps to alleviate the toughest and costliest skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis.

Although it is said that if it sounds too good to be true it usually is. Surprisingly this does not seem to be the case with CBD skin care products (5). A New York Dermatologist, Dr. Francesca Fusco found that CBD can even improve overall skin health. In her studies, Fusco has found that CBD is a source of rich fatty acids and contains other nutrients that are beneficial to the skin to retain moisture and keep skin youthful. Studies show Cannabidiol to assist with the-

Repairing of the skin and reduce the appearance of scars, wrinkles and skin discoloration.
Reduction of inflammation and improvement of symptoms of inflammation-related conditions such as Multiple Sclerosis (MS), eczema, and acne.
Improvement of the circulatory system by reducing vascular tension, reducing blood pressure, and preventing cell death from oxidative stress. (6)

Who loves it?

The list of celebrities that are advocates for CBD is lengthy from athletes such as Mike Tyson to actors / actresses like Kirsten Bell, Whoopi Goldberg, Seth Rogen and Jenniffer Aniston (7). In recent media Kim Kardashian welcomed guests to her California home to enjoy a CBD themed baby shower for her 4th childs’ arrival (8). This might make you think it is simply a trend that will die down after the hype but more companies are popping up with new CBD services regularly, including celebrities who are jumping on the CBD bandwagon and opening CBD companies such as Whoopi Goldberg creating CBD products for menstrual pain, Mike Tyson developing his own CBD farm. (9)

While hemp has been on the high street for a few years notably with Body Shop selling a pot shaped soap bar made from hemp. Its only in the last year or so that other companies have launched their own range of CBD cosmetics. The American chain Sephora has added CBD infused products from Milk Makeup and (Estee Lauders sister company) Origins (10). Continuing their trend, this week they announced that they would be stocking a powerful blend of CBD by Saint Jane’s Luxury: CBD Beauty Serum. The price tag on this item come in at $125 a bottle! (12)

Who loves it?

Regulations & Law – UK

The Cosmetics Regulation is directly applicable in the UK and therefore, CBD may be used in cosmetics placed on the UK market provided they are obtained from cannabis, cannabis resin, cannabis extracts and cannabis tinctures originating from the seeds and leaves that are not accompanied with the fruiting tops of the cannabis plant.

Cosmetics operators may contact one of the safety assessors available from the UK industry body Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) to comply with the safety assessment requirements imposed under Annex I of the Cosmetics Regulations. The Regulation also requires manufacturers to notify the European Commission directly of every cosmetic product placed on the market, using the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP).

EU

The European Industrial Hemp Association (EIHA) supports the development of a harmonized legislation in this field, to make sure that consumers are protected, to sustain the industry’s current double-digit growth rate, to attract new investors and to boost product development. The legislation should avoid any restrictions for CBD and clarify that extracts and preparations from industrial hemp are not narcotics in the EU.

Final Thoughts

The CBD market is an industry that has plenty of room for all entrepreneurs. It looks unlikely that it will be calming down anytime soon as national bodies abandon their historical approach of criminalising anything cannabis based and instead seek to regulate appropriately.